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A look at the state of Maui’s sacred sites: forgotten, neglected, commercialized, destroyed

Editor’s Note: This list is but a small selection of the sacred sites and burial grounds destroyed (or at risk of being destroyed) by the  tourism industry, the U.S. military and  sometimes the government.  Please contact the editor at haltimes@hawaii.rr.com if you have additional information or know of a site that is in jeopardy. Public shame can be a  very effective method of keeping developers in line.

Research contributed by Lucienne de Naie

Central Maui

1. Puu Hele, sacred site  
A legendary cinder cone said to be the kinolau (earthly form) of a male Mo‘o. Pu‘uhele is said to be the father of Pu‘uoinaina who lived on the sacred island of Kohemalamlama (Kaho‘olawe) and was smote in two by Pele in a fit of jealously. Pu‘uoinaina’s head became Molokini islet and her tail became Pu‘u ‘Ola‘I  part of Makena State Park. Pu‘uhele, was originally a cinder cone approximately 200 feet high and was considered by some accounts as a “place of refuge.” Maui Chief Kekaulike’s body was taken there on its way to final rites at Piihana Heiau in Wailuku (1736).
Current State: Destroyed to build Puunene airfield in WWII. Remaining pit now used as garbage dump, source of various violations due to fires and leaking toxics (see photo on opposite page).

2. Papanene Heiau/ Kapuka‘ulua. Puu Nene
The Heiau was listed as “destroyed’ in a 1930 Bishop Museum survey (Winslow Walker) but Walker confused the modern day area of Puu Nene mill with the actual Puu Nene cinder cone that is just inland from the current Maui Country Club in Spreckelsville. This area was the site of a great battle in the late 1730s as armies lead by great ruling chiefs of O‘ahu and Hawai‘i fought in support of rival sons of recently deceased Maui Chief Kekaulike. The battle ended in a truce (according to 19th century historian, Kamakau in Ruling Chiefs of Hawai‘i) after great slaughter on both sides. It is likely that the truce was finalized at the Papanene Heiau. Nearby sand dunes behind Maui Country Club are nicknamed “Skull Beach” for numerous skeletons found there over the years, likely remains of this battle and later burials.
Current State: Most of Puu Nene has been mined to build NASKA (Kahului airport), roads, etc. A distinctive remnant of the original hill still remains a prominent feature on the mauka landscape among the cane field of Spreckelsville. An alignment of large rocks remain at the base of the hill that could have been part of the original heiau. Area is currently used as industrial garbage dump by HC&S (see photo on page 6).

West Maui

3. Pu‘u Keka‘a, Ka‘anapali   “ka leina a ka uhane” jumping off place of souls, Heiau and burial ground
Keka‘a (commonly called “Black Rock”) is a legendary place site  mentioned in various ancient stories and connected also with famous battles. It is situated on the North end of the Sheraton maui property and over the past 20 years the hotel has encroached more and more of its buildings and activities out onto the rock formation itself. Keka‘a is the last of four cinder cones formed in the Lahaina volcanic series , which occurred long after the rest of West Maui had been formed. (The three additional  cones are Puu Hele (near Ma‘alaea), Puu Kilea in Olowalu and Puu Laina (now Crater Reservoir above Mala Wharf and Lahaina town).
Current State: Tourist resort attraction, heavily trafficked by beachgoers to popular snorkeling site off shore. Not sure what happened to graveyard or heiau.

4. Kawaialoa Heiau, (Olowalu) - also spelled Kawailoa
Substantial Heiau in Olowalu a few hundred meters Mauka of Puu Kilea (Olowalu petroglyph) photographed and sketched in 1930 by Winslow Walker (Bishop Museum Survey of Maui Sites) Ashdown says it related to astronomy and navigation. (Great night sky views) Erik  Fredericksen (c. 1998) did extensive archaeological survey of entire Olowalu area and documented numerous pre-contact sites and features from mountains to sea.
Current State: Heiau is in good repair but very overgrown. It was set aside as part of a cultural preserve in Olowalu with specific “buffer zones.” Heiau is currently blocked by a new house that is built just beyond the “buffer zone.” No one appears to be caring for the site in recent times although a lele or Hawaiian altar was constructed there after the development surrounding it was given approvals. Nearby petroglyphs continue to be defaced.

5. Ma‘alaea Heiau and Village overlooking Ma‘alaea Bay

Over 40 house sites and a very large heiau were documented in the 1920s and 30s on the slopes above Ma‘alaea Bay overlooking the present Ma‘alaea harbor site. A fresh water source Kapoli spring was at the shoreline and the village had  a fishing shrine, petroglyphs, Adze sharpening stone, Piko stone, pathways and other features linking  habitations that stretched north towards MacGregor Pt.
Current state:  Heiau and most of village destroyed in 1953 to harvest rocks to build Ma‘alaea breakwater. Petroglphs, a few special rocks, ko’a and other features still remain, overgrown and neglected.

6.  Moku‘ula: site of sacred pond and island, near shore in Lahaina
Extremely sacred site to Pi‘ilani family (ruling dynasty of maui from 16th century). Site was an island surrounded by a freshwater pond guarded by Mo‘o goddess Kiha Pi‘ilani (sacred daughter of Chief Pi‘ilani) and also called Kiha Wahine. Moku‘ula played a prominent part in the reign of Kamehameha III during the 1840s serving as a part time residence and royal retreat as well as housing a Mausoleum.
Current state: Pond which is located on public land was abandoned, forgotten and filled in as a public nuisance, in early part of 20th century and island and other features were buried in the process. Area is currently a county park (Malu-ulu-o-Lele)  with ball fields,  etc. Process begun around 1998 to reclaim and restore the sacred island. Ball fields have been relocated, but the restoration process is just beginning. An educational support group (Friends of Moku‘ula) is spearheading the effort of this cultural treasure that was almost lost to all time.

South Maui

7. Waimahaihai /Kamaole Ko‘a: fishing shrine along Kihei coast
Waimahaihai is a point along the shoreline in the region of Kamaole (South Kihei area across from Kukui Mall). State land located behind the Kihei fire station on the corner of Kihei Road and Waimahaihai Street was excavated in the early 1990s during the construction of the new Kihei library.  Reports are that the state land was once a wetlands that had been used as a rubbish dump over time (post WWII). Portions of the ko’a or heiau were uncovered during library construction and thanks to volunteer efforts by Theresa Donham, Charles Keau and others, the site was preserved and partially restored. Charlie Keau had notes indicating a ko’a was located in this general area The ko‘a/heiau is located approximately several hundred yards mauka (inland) from the current shoreline and was on ground that was higher than the former wetlands, so as to overlook it.
Remains of other precontact structures and burials were found on the remaining lands of the parcel and some remain under the lawns that surround the makai side of the new library. It is possible that the wetland remnant of the 20th century was actually a larger freshwater pond or coastal fish pond (loko)  with a small village built up around it from the 16th or 17th century. Artifacts found during construction were placed on display in the library (not sure on current status). Bishop Museum Arch Stokes described a heiau site in the same general location in his c. 1916 tour of Maui and referred to it as “Waiohuli Kai Heiau”. The library area is on the border of two traditional  S. Maui coastal land divisions- Kama‘ole-kai  and Waiohuli-kai. Waimahaihai Pt. is makai of the heiau/ko‘a and the prominent and the legendary cinder cone of  Puu o Kali (reputed to be a mo‘o goddess) is mauka of the heiau area. There was reputed to be a fishpond in the Waiohuli-kai area that was constructed in the 15th century.
Current state: preserved and has a historical plaque with very minimal information. Site does not have regular stewardship and some vandalism seems to have occurred.

8.  Wailea Point punawai (spring) and village site, Palauea/Paeahu border 
Pre-contact Hawaiian village site on Wailea Pt  (overlooking the south end of the beach at the Grand Wailea Resort) included a house site, terraced platforms, other walled enclosures, well, fishing trail from village site to rocky coastline and a natural spring (Wailea) that gave the area its name. Carbon dating showed continuous use of the village site from 15th century to early 20th century.
Current State: Wailea Point Village was recommended for preservation, but that was eventually “interpreted” to mean that it could be disassembled and reconstructed at a more “convenient site” (for the developer). The original village site is filled with large condos. The “new” village site is also surrounded by large condos and functions as a “feature” along a coastal walkway.  The traditional trail, Old Makena Road and legendary well site have all been obliterated from the original village site and ceased to exist.
 
9. Ko‘a (fishing shrine) and village complex at Po‘olenalena (Wailea area)
A complex of 20 or more sites (called the Keauhou 1 & 2 Clusters by archaeologists, for the Keauhou ahupua‘a  where it is located). The Complex included a fishing ko‘a,  house sites, platforms, planting areas and other precontact features stretched along an area that went from the rocky shoreline to the sloping mauka lands for almost a mile. The lands, which were part of Wailea Development company for many years, were proposed for development as a golf course. Eventually, the one oceanfront parcel (“Parcel 15”) was sold to a private developer.
Current State: Some of the Keauhou complex features were destroyed when the new Makena Alanui Road was built (1980s) and most of the more mauka sites were “mitigated” and destroyed when the golf course was constructed (mid-1990s). The remaining sites on the oceanfront parcel were the subject of a heated public controversy when a very large gated mansion (The Cameron estate, named after the Texas oil executive who commissioned it to be built) was built adjacent to the public beach at Po‘olenalena in 1999-2000. Only one site, the fishing shrine, was preserved and it is located behind locked gates and is reportedly a landscape feature in the courtyard of the large house. The fate of a special stone “Po‘olenalena (or “golden”), that was a landmark in the area is not known. It was rumored to be preserved alongside the Makena Alanui Road in the golf course.

10. Unnamed Heiau surrounded by Makena Shores condo development (Wailea)
Substantial three-tiered coastal heiau on a knoll overlooking a gulch and the ocean. Heiau was one of over a dozen features and multiple human burials located on the 16-acre Makena Shores/Makena Place exclusive condo site that was developed over a great deal of public opposition over a 20 year period (1983-2002).
Current State: Preserved and has a historical plaque with very minimal information. Site is cared for by condo landscape personel. All other features, including the traditional Makena Road were destroyed with the exception of one canoe shed (hale Wa‘a) a little South of the heiau. A variety of the burials were eventually re-entered adjacent to the Hale Wa‘a. Heiau site is completely overshadowed by large condo buildings, compromising its cultural integrity according to some Hawaiian cultural practitioners.

11.  Keauhou  3 & 4 Cluster of sites, Wailea Golf Course- complex east of Makena Surf condos
Several additional clusters of ceremonial sites, habitations, planting and work areas, trails and other historic and precontact sites were found during successive surveys of proposed golf course lands. Several sites that were dismissed as having little interest were later explored further and additional features and artifacts were found, including a burial of a woman in a carved wooden canoe from the 19th century.
Current State: Hidden. Burial remains were removed to Keawalai Church in Makena. Artifacts are held by archaeological consultants, fate of various sites are unknown. Some may still exist in the rough areas of the golf course.

12. Unnmaed Makena grave
Ancient  house site and burial that lie along the fairway of the Makena Resort golf course. The land that this site sits on was originally Government land (from kingdom times) that had not been sold to an individual landowner. It had been under lease to Ulupalakua Ranch during at least the 20th century. This parcel was part of a land exchange made between Seibu
and the state in the 1980s. Seibu was given 63 acres of state land in various locations in trade for 8 acres of beach front land at Oneloa  (Makena Beach State Park)
Current State: The enclosure and grave site have been preserved as a “hazard” on the golf course.  A posted sign notes that it is a cultural site and asks that, out of respect, golf balls hit into the site not be retrieved. Lineal descendents are allowed to visit the grave site if they make arrangements with Makena Resort.

13. Makena Complex - remains of coastal villages located on Dowling’s proposed Keaka project at Maluaka
Clusters of coastal sites covering over 50 acres which were first noted by western archaeologists n 1974. Many sites were missed by early survey’s as they rushed to keep ahead of golf course development. Makena Complex was slowly bulldozed in oblivion after each segment was reviewed separately and found to have little “significance”.
Current State: The last remaining portion of the once extensive sites of the Makena complex lies on an 11-acre site that Everett Dowling proposes for a  “Green development.”Citizen pressure forced a more in depth archeological study that revealed around ten additional sites and scores of additional features including burials. Dowling and his consultants moved two buildings to preserve a terraced fishing shrine and the burials, but his plans propose to remove the majority of ancient and historic structures on the land including a very mysterious and well built structure that his archaeologist recommended to preserve, but no bulldozing has happened yet.

14. Ka‘eo Farming village (Site 1916) 

A site was discovered during survey work in the 1990s which had interconnected terraces, platforms, shelters, a shrine area and various pathways and walls – 34 features in all. It was an example of the inland  farming areas used by pre-contact Hawaiians to farm crops like sweet potatoes and work on creating fishing implements while their crops grew. Walls found in the area were thought to possibly be markers for ahupua‘a divisions.
Current State: Surveyed, photographed, and sketched, some sub surface testing done, then entire site was cleared to be placed by Makena Resort water storage tank which they then gave to the County Water Dept.

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